Rolling Miter Saw Stand

It’s the second edition of Weekend BuildsTM! Last time on the program, I built an assembly table for the workshop. This week, it’s all about a rolling miter saw stand. My workshop is only 10’ x 12’, so I need to keep everything as compact and organized as possible. Not something that I would call one of my strengths, but I’ll give it my best effort. I’m hopeful that the miter saw stand will help me out a bit in this regard.

I began by measuring out the dimensions of my miter saw. I focused on the height and width of the saw, along with how much space the full swivel of the saw took up. Based on those measurements, I went with a 23” x 25” stand. Once the measurements were made, it was time to cut everything to size.

I had a bunch of random scraps of plywood leftover from other projects, so I tried to build this entire stand without buying any wood. The main body of the stand is made out of ¾” plywood. I started by cutting the base, sides, and back for everything. For some of these wider pieces of plywood, I find it easier to make the cuts by setting up a straight edge and using my circular saw.

I offset my straight edge to account for the circular saw blade offset (about 1 1/4″).

One key for making all of these cuts was to allow for the thickness of the plywood in my measurements. I knew that I wanted my top to be 23” x 25”, which meant that my base had to by 24½” x 25¾” to allow for the sides and back to be attached to it. I left the front side open on the stand for storage and a shelf.

After making all of the cuts I could start to assemble. First, I laid all of the pieces out and cut pocket holes in each of the sides that were going to be assembled together.

It’s like a little assembly puzzle.

I cut the back of the stand slightly shorter than the sides. This will allow for the back of the miter saw to swivel freely once in place. 

Using pocket holes and glue, I assembled the base together.

Sweet shirt!

With the base complete, I added wheels and then moved on to installing the top. I did this by adding a support on each side of the base that was level with the back lip. I could then screw the top of the stand directly into those supports. In my opinion this was an easier and more sturdy route than using pocket holes on the top.

Looking up into the stand, you can see the top supports on the side walls.

If I wanted to, I could have stopped after this point and had a fairly good rolling miter saw stand. However, I wanted to make the stand self-sufficient, which meant adding folding wings on the sides to support longer pieces of wood while cutting.

Almost done!

To start on the wings, I measured and cut a frame out of extra ¾” plywood. The frames are 1¼” so that when they are flipped open the top is level with the top of the miter saw.

I placed extra support through the middle of the frame for sturdiness before adding a sheet of ½” plywood on top. Luckily I had some decently smooth plywood leftover for this section. I may end up putting a coat of poly on the wings (and maybe the whole stand) to protect it and make it easier to slide cuts around on top of it.

Wings made, it was time to make the wing supports. The supports were made out of two simple triangles cut from one rectangular sheet of plywood. I cut off the tips of the triangle for aesthetics. I also added a block of ¾” plywood to the tip of the support. In that block of plywood I installed a 5/8″ insert and a bolt to be able to adjust the level of the stand wings. I flipped the stand on its face after finishing the supports in order to install them to the side.

So close to being perfect, but I had to move this down about 3″ later.

I will say that I actually made a mistake in the photo above. The supports needed to be level with the bottom of the wing cleat (which I installed coming up). So I actually had to remove these and reinstall them lower after I realized my mistake.

Once the supports were on it was time to install a cleat flush with the top edge of the stand and then use piano hinge to connect the wings. Piano hinge can be cut with a reciprocating saw or hacksaw. I chose to use bolt cutters which worked just fine.

Cleat, wing, and lowered support all in place. Also in view, the adjustable bolt in an insert to help make the wings level.

Next up, fences. A fence helps keep long boards straight when making a cut on the miter saw. I used an old shelf we had from when I removed the cabinets under our kitchen bar. I cut these down to 2¼” strips (4 of them) and then used two for each side to make a “L” shape. On the base that attached to the wings I drilled out slots and used bolts with wing nuts to hold them into place. This allows me to adjust the fences back or forward to align perfectly with the placement of the miter saw.

Not the prettiest, but certainly functional and free.
Lining up and leveling the final wing placement.

That’s it! It was a bit of a long weekend, but I got it all done (except an eventual shelf, shhh!). Having the miter saw on a rolling stand will help me save space in the shop and be more efficient when it comes time to use the miter saw. Now I just need to clean up the rest of my shop!

Wings folded in.
One wing up.
Both wings up. One good looking rolling miter saw stand.

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